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  • Mick's 70 Lowlight uploaded a new video
    The finished result...
    Sig Erson 1.4 Rocker Setup
    •   General
    •   Monday, 26 June 2017
    Dialling in my rockers setting up the geometry
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  • Got the valve train geometry sorted out today. Had to make up a custom adjustable pushrod for the Sig Erson ratio rockers as they have a cup style end instead of the normal ball end, this unfortunately meant sacrificing a pushrod. The Sig Erson pushrods were too short to use so I decided to cut... Got the valve train geometry sorted out today. Had to make up a custom adjustable pushrod for the Sig Erson ratio rockers as they have a cup style end instead of the normal ball end, this unfortunately meant sacrificing a pushrod. The Sig Erson pushrods were too short to use so I decided to cut one of those up, I had a set of aluminium cut to length pushrods for another engine build so used those instead.

    Setting the pushrod and rocker geometry is a job that requires a little patience to get the best results, and after making up a number of different thickness shims I found the perfect setup. Overall lift is 9.9mm which is 0.389" a definite improvement over stock but not as good as I had hoped given that I'm using a 1.4:1 ratio rocker. Ahh well. Will just have to see how it performs. Really need to get that dyno built so that I can start to verify some of these mods.
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  • Another small but vital part of the puzzle, my Sig Erson pushrods arrived today. This means I can set up my valve geometry this weekend, Yay.
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  • Mick
    Mick uploaded a new video in Porsche Replicas
    Watercooled Society - Custom Porsche Speedster
    •   Misc
    •   Friday, 23 June 2017
    This 1964 Porsche Speedster replica is completely custom, one of a kind. Everything has had to be custom built, the air ride kit all the way to fully detachable…
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  • After a four month wait my hood frame, windscreen frame, side screens and hood cover has finally arrived. Happy days. Now I just need to figure out how it mounts in the car. Looking forwards to getting the hood frame installed so that I can make the car weatherproof.
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  • Another small step towards the end goal. I made up a small calliper to measure the thickness of the cylinder head at the second plug location so that I could select the correct length spark plugs. The second plug is a smaller 10mm plug. Next task on the agenda is to make up a spark plug indexing... Another small step towards the end goal. I made up a small calliper to measure the thickness of the cylinder head at the second plug location so that I could select the correct length spark plugs. The second plug is a smaller 10mm plug. Next task on the agenda is to make up a spark plug indexing tool. The idea behind spark plug indexing is to face the electrode bridge away from the chamber to aid in flame travel. Ideally electrode gap wants to point towards the densest part of the charge. The location of the charge is determined by reading the spark ignition point on the plugs (small clean area on the electrode). Alternatively facing the gap towards the exhaust valve is stated to help improve the burn.

    This may be taking things to extremes but as I am running twin plugs I want to make sure that the flame fronts from each plug travel in the same direction and at the same rate. If one is obscured by the electrode bridge it could result in an uneven burn.

    I also want to get into the habit of indexing the plugs as the next incarnation of development is to run a squish piston design which will totally enclose the plug except for a very small burn chamber. In this case indexing the plugs will be very important.
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  •   Mick commented on this post about 6 days ago
    Adrian Cavanagh
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  • Another piece of the puzzle...
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  • Mick
    Mick uploaded a new video in Forced Induction
    DLi blower kit on a bug
    Andrew Clyde Bell
    •   Forced Induction
    •   Sunday, 18 June 2017
    Whoop whoop!
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  • rabidkombi
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  • Carried out repairs to the rear moustache bar mounts today. Unfortunately the threads had stripped out, probably when the bus grounded out in the same pot hole that tore through my oil line. Repairing them involved drilling the holes out larger and tapping them to accept helicoils. With the rear... Carried out repairs to the rear moustache bar mounts today. Unfortunately the threads had stripped out, probably when the bus grounded out in the same pot hole that tore through my oil line. Repairing them involved drilling the holes out larger and tapping them to accept helicoils. With the rear bar fitted I made a start on modifying the exhaust to fit properly. Fortunately I've got some stainless pipe of the correct size so it's a simple case of cutting and extending the J Tubes, I can rotate the flanges to line up with the header at the same time. I'm tempted to cut and shut the header so that it sits a bit better too. Will see how I get on tomorrow. More
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  • Finished off the gauges this evening. Scaled the fascias down to fit and printed out a few test prints. I initially tried to print onto transparent water decal paper but found that the ink was not vibrant enough and did not show up that great on the black background. This was a shame as the... Finished off the gauges this evening. Scaled the fascias down to fit and printed out a few test prints. I initially tried to print onto transparent water decal paper but found that the ink was not vibrant enough and did not show up that great on the black background. This was a shame as the transparent decal paper works a lot better then the white.

    So unfortunately I was forced to use the white paper so that the green numerals were visible. This had one unfortunate side effect - that the white edge of the paper was clearly visible in a few areas against the black background.

    One other thing I noticed is that despite having a laser printer the quality is really not that good. It could be down to the way that I'm processing the image but having exported it 1:1 from an SVG program and printing it 1:1 it came out surprisingly pixelated.

    Despite the quality issues I decided to continue on and get the gauges back together as I figured I could touch up the white bits with texta and as I now had the artwork, at some point down the track I could get some vinyl stickers printed up. At least I would have some functional gauges for the time being.

    With the transfers in place they are then 'cooked' in the oven for 10 minutes at 150 degrees. This is to 'set' the transfer. Unfortunately on a few of the transfers the surface bubbled up a little. I'm guessing that this may have been due to water trapped underneath, or maybe they were not in the oven long enough. With no info supplied with the decal paper it's pretty much anyones guess as to why,.

    With the decals installed on the faces I poked and cut the various holes and then reassembled the gauges. Despite the obvious quality issues they don't look too bad (as long as you don't get too close). I need to get the bezels chromed (I may just paint them for the interim) but even with the dodgy looking faces they will do just fine. (and they didn't cost me $1k like the reproduction units you get).
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