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My Tuppaware Porsche 356. It's a bit of a time-warp. It was built back in the late 1980's by a company called Auto Styli...
My Tuppaware Porsche 356. It's a bit of a time-warp. It was built back in the late 1980's by a company called Auto Styling who were based in Perth WA. I'm the third owner and current custodian.

I'm currently turning it into a tribute car. A missing link car that might have existed as a prototype for the speedster development. A link between the earlier Pre-A cabriolets and the first Speedsters.
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Speedster
    Stacks and filters
    One of those things that immediately grabs your attention when you open the engine bay on a 356 are the air filters. The original Pre-A's used dual single Solex carburettors moving on to the two barrel P40 Solex carburettors for t...
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Speedster
    Beehives
    I finally pulled the trigger on a set of beehives. I've long wanted to replace the not-quite-correct Lucas style 'beehives' with the correct style units and could resist no more when I saw these for sale....
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Speedster
    It's inside
    Been a while since anything has happened on the speedster. Not that there is anything to really report, but I did manage to tick off a couple of small jobs recently...
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Speedster
    Keeping with my vintage speed 356 inspired Okrasa engine build I bought a nice O/T crank pulley. These four hole items are found on early 356's....
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Speedster
    Another piece in the puzzle arrived today. Todays treasure is a 356 oil filler neck....
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Speedster
    Okrasa 1625cc
    Been a bit flat out with work so no real time to do anything on the build but have been doing a bit of daydreaming whilst standing at the lathe. I've somehow convinced myself that I should put together my Okrasa engine for the Speedste...
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Speedster
    After completing the collector for my DIY Sebring exhaust the next part that I need to tackle is making the silencers. I have already spent a bit of time doing some research to try and find some off-the-shelf items but due to the small...
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  • Speedster uploaded a new video
    1948 Porsche Gmund SL Coupe Hybrid Wireform Buck
    One of our favourite students is back and he brought his Porsche Gmund Wireform / SuperLeggera / MDF buck. He has progressed so much on this project since the last time he was here. He hopes to finish the front portion of the Porsche while also finishing some panels he previously made.
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  • Mick uploaded a new video
    Cool video showing the creation of rear quarter and roof panels using traditional methods
    1952 Porsche 356 'Streamliner' roof & rear quarter fabrication
    On this video it shows panel fabrication on a 1952 Porsche 356 split screen 'streamliner' outlaw.
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  •   Barty reacted to this post about 2 years ago
    Speedster uploaded a new video
    Old Soul - The Ford v. Ferrari Porsche 906
    A short documentary to bring out the old soul in us all. Old Soul features Tory Alonzo and his a replica Porsche 906, and delves into automotive history, engineering and the legacies a well-crafted car can leave behind.

    The replica Porsche 906 in this film was a prop car featured in James Mangold's Ford v. Ferrari, staring Matt Damon and Christian Bale. This documentary is now playing along side the vehicle itself at the the Porsche Experience Center in Atlanta, Georgia.
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  •   Barty reacted to this post about 2 years ago
    Speedster uploaded a new video
    The 906 and Piëch’s lightweight revolution
    29-year-old Ferdinand Piëch became the new head of Porsche Research and Development. His vision was to create an entirely new generation of race cars. The 906 Carrera 6 kept the basic layout of the 904, with the engine mounted ahead of the transaxle for optimal weight distribution, but this time mounted in a light and rigid tubular space frame. The body of the 906 was developed in the wind tunnel for optimal aerodynamic efficiency, resulting in a curvaceous body with a 0.35 drag coefficient....
    29-year-old Ferdinand Piëch became the new head of Porsche Research and Development. His vision was to create an entirely new generation of race cars. The 906 Carrera 6 kept the basic layout of the 904, with the engine mounted ahead of the transaxle for optimal weight distribution, but this time mounted in a light and rigid tubular space frame. The body of the 906 was developed in the wind tunnel for optimal aerodynamic efficiency, resulting in a curvaceous body with a 0.35 drag coefficient. Large ducts behind the gullying-style doors fed cool air to the rear brakes and transaxle, while ducts at the nose directed air to the oil-cooler. It was a radical departure from the sculpted shape of the 904, but perhaps a visual representation of the beginning of Piëch’s revolution.

    Since there were ample extras from the 904’s planned second production run, the independent suspension components received minor modifications and were incorporated in the 906. Piëch had originally wanted to use 13-inch diameter Formula One wheels to lower the new car’s profile, but Porsche could not afford to write off the expense of the large quantity of 15-inch wheels intended for the 904’s canceled second wave of production. The steeply arched front fenders were a result of having to run the larger diameter wheels.

    Beneath the yellow-tinted and louvered plexiglass rear window, a pair of Weber triple-throat carburetors peek through openings in the rear clamshell. The 1991-cc air-cooled flat-six was essentially the same as that found in the production 911, albeit optimally tuned for racing with a 10.3:1 compression ratio. The connecting rods were constructed from titanium and the crankshaft of forged steel, while in the crankcase sodium-filled exhaust valves were used in the cylinder heads. Horsepower was conservatively rated at 210 horsepower at 8,000 rpm and torque rated at 146 lb-ft at 6,000 rpm. The fully synchronized 5-speed transmission was also production-based, although available with a range of gear sets to suit the type of competition it was destined for. The 906 weighed in at a scant 1,275 pounds with oil and a dry fuel tank and could reach a top speed of approximately 170 mph.

    The 906 debuted at the 1966 24 Hours of Daytona, where it finished in 6th place overall and won the Sports 2.0-liter class. It repeated the victory seven weeks later against the Dino at Sebring, and again at 1000-km races at Monza, Spa, and Nürburgring. A semi-privately entered 906 won overall at the 1966 Targa Florio, once again besting the Ferrari Dinos. At the 24 Hours of Le Mans, the 906s took positions 4-5-6-7, right behind the big-block V-8 powered Ford GT40 MKIIs.

    Throughout the world, there continued to be numerous 906 victories over the years. Competition tends to take its toll on the cars and many are crashed, repaired, or altogether destroyed. Of the 65 906’s built only 40 exist today.
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  • Mick uploaded a new video
    Pre-A getting a hammering
    Chris Harris races Porsche 356 at Goodwood Revival
    Chris Harris races Howard Donald's Porsche 356 in the Fordwater Trophy at Goodwood Revival. Can he convert second on the grid into a win?
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Speedster
    Managed to scrounge a few minutes to finish off the collector for the Sebring exhaust tonight. I had ran out of gas when I was initially welding up the collector and so still had to join the two halves together. Today I managed to get a few minu...
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Speedster
    Glaser Karosserie
    Many 356 fans will know of the name Reuter, the coach builder responsible for the manufacture of the Porsche 356 from 1950 onwards, but many do not realise that initially Reuter did not have the capacity to build the convertible models so t...
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Speedster
    If you read my previous post Sebring Exhaust Part 1 you would know that I have decided to build my own Sebring style exhaust. This evening I managed to get a little time to make a start on it....
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Speedster
    Got some more goodies today, my new front brake discs. These took a while to source as everyone has been out of stock since before Xmas....
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Speedster
    A Sebring style exhaust is something that I have been planning for a long while. Whilst it's not the best style of header to use from a performance perspective, it does have that iconic Porsche racing style to it and so is the perfect choice for...
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Speedster
    Aluminium Badges
    Building an early replica has been a bit of a challenge in some areas. The Late 50's cars have a pretty good availability for trim and parts as most parts are now remanufactured. The early cars however have a number of differences from those late par...
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Speedster
    SCCSA Grille Badge
    It seems to be a tradition amongst replica 356 owners to have a period grille badge. Not being a fan of fake Outlaw 356 or Cliche'd Nurburgring badges I've been on the lookout for something more suitable....
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  • Joe Blow Ad
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  • Speedster has been updated
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  • Speedster changed the cover photo
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Speedster
    Mail Call
    It's been an exciting week for deliveries. Got another parcel today. Can you guess what it is?...
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Speedster
    Mail call
    Received some more goodies in the post.Early style rear lights and a red lense for my shine down light so that I can use it is a third brake light...
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Speedster
    The missing link
    Some of you may know that I'm trying to make my car look like a 'missing-link' car, something that might have come between the Pre-A cabs and the Speedster. Whilst the Max Hoffman commissioned America Roadster (shown below) is the actu...
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Speedster
    After a successful trial making a steel door garnish, I decided to have a go at making the complete thing....
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Speedster
    Door Capping
    I've long wanted to make some original style steel door cappings for my speedster. Whilst repros can be purchased they seem to be almost as expensive as my car. Karmann Konnection in the UK have some listed at AU$1k for the pair. Far too ri...
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Speedster
    Just a quick update. Not much has been happening on the project as I've been tied up with work. But I did manage to grab a quick 5 minutes today to make a start on the fuel tank......
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Speedster
    Mail Call
    Picked up these pre-loved side screens from thesamba. Big thanks to Patrick Brown for the heads up on these. Loving the aged look of these. Very reasonably priced too.I believe that these might be a period aftermarket accessory. I've seen a...
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Speedster
    In this episode I assemble the parts and drink some coffee.Well, that's more-or-less what happened......
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Speedster
    Got the handbrake parts back from the water jet cutters today. They need a bit of revision but look like they will work (always a win for a prototype). First blush, material is too thick, also main body is a bit too substantial (may change this ...
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Speedster
    The great thing about non-standard parts is that somehow you need to make them fit. You will recall in previous posts that I've been chipping away at making the steering wheel fit. First making it fit the column, then making the column supp...
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  • Turned up a joiner piece for joining the steering columns...
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  • Been contemplating what to do with the rear brakes on the speedster. It has an older rear disc conversion but looks incomplete. I have some 944 trailing arms in the parts bin that I bought for my Ghia about 20 years ago but they add about an inch to the rear track. It looks like there's enough space between the arch and wheel to fit them, but that's on the Lemmertz wheels, which I'm planning to change out. I'm not sure what the offset is on the other wheels I'm planning to fit. Guess I need...
    Been contemplating what to do with the rear brakes on the speedster. It has an older rear disc conversion but looks incomplete. I have some 944 trailing arms in the parts bin that I bought for my Ghia about 20 years ago but they add about an inch to the rear track. It looks like there's enough space between the arch and wheel to fit them, but that's on the Lemmertz wheels, which I'm planning to change out. I'm not sure what the offset is on the other wheels I'm planning to fit. Guess I need to check.

    Sectioning the rear panels is one solution to gain an extra inch or two. Not sure if I'm brave enough for that. Also not sure how good it would look on a speedster. Looks pretty good on the coupe, but then the lines are a lot different.

    MIght just have to try and fix up the brakes that are on there and experiment with this after it's up and running. After all it's not like I don;t have enough to do with the rest of the car
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  • Made a start on modifying my steering column. Need to take some photos.
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Speedster
    Not too much progress to report. Although I did make a steering column bush for the hybrid steering column setup I'm building.I'm not 100% sold on the black nylon, however the white was simply too white and new looking. I figured black would look a l...
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Speedster
    Wiring Loom
    Had a spare 5 mins today so decided to take a look at the wiring loom on the Speedster project to try and figure out what I have and what's needed. I wasn't really sure what came with the car except that there was a carrier bag with what looked like ...
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  • Mick commented on the blog post, Horn Push Finished
    Horn Push Finished

    Apologies from the crappy photos It's hard to take a decent picture of the horn push as no matter how you light it and what camera angle you use, it always has a bright reflections in it. (I even used reflected diffused light for the above shot).

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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Speedster
    Horn Push Finished
    I finally got around to finishing off my horn push project....
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  • So I'm pretty much decided on 5303 Graphite metallic. It's a '54 colour, which fits with the theme I'm trying to emulate.
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  • Joe Blow Ad
    A word from our sponsors...
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  • Looking at the colour combos for 54 it's looking like Black, Graphite metallic or Jade green metallic based solely on the tonneau, top and interior colours, which I already have. The Jade is not 100% correct with a beige interior / top, but it is such a lovely colour and would go well with a beige top and interior.

    From what I have read the early cars all had red oxide primer.
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  • Been looking for info on original primer colours and came across the following information relating to preparing and painting...

    I'm basing this off 1953 coupes mostly, but it is true for cars going back to 1950 and up through '55 too I think. Would be happy for corrections:

    Body color for a coupe:

    - exterior, including headlight buckets
    - interior and exterior of both front and rear lids, including latches. Not sure about the spring on the front latch.
    - exterior and partially (sloppy)...
    Been looking for info on original primer colours and came across the following information relating to preparing and painting...

    I'm basing this off 1953 coupes mostly, but it is true for cars going back to 1950 and up through '55 too I think. Would be happy for corrections:

    Body color for a coupe:

    - exterior, including headlight buckets
    - interior and exterior of both front and rear lids, including latches. Not sure about the spring on the front latch.
    - exterior and partially (sloppy) on inside of doors. Be sure to prime the doors well, and the schutz (undercoat) on the inside of the skin. Exterior color overspray is fine on the inner door structures that hold the handle and winder.
    - interior passenger area up to the A, B, C pillars (roof kept in primer). Be sure to get the area behind the dash, including the defroster tube/funnels. Be sloppy here, so you get some nice runs on the defroster funnels and leave some exposed primer on the backside of the horizontal defroster tube.
    - dash gets 1 coat of exterior color front and back. Then, if the exterior color is light and the dash is dark (almost always the case), then the front side of the dash gets the dark color. Be sure to get some nice overspray on the rear of the dash, just like Reutter did it.
    - sides and rear of luggage compartment get body color.
    - aluminum door hinge covers get body color just on the front side. Just primer on the back.

    Black semi-gloss:

    - luggage area floor except for side and back walls (which get body color). Some of this will also get covered in schutz.
    - battery box (also gets shutz)
    - engine area (also gets covered in schutz). Reutter I think just did schutz over the primer. But all black.
    - Above driver/passenger knees below the gas tank. Spray this from driver's side so you leave some primer exposed on the angles you don't hit. Just like Reutter. Footwell. Floor. (If the carpet was dark blue, the areas here gets painted dark, dark blue) The footwell and floor get this black (or dark blue) color covered in 1 layer of schutz, some of it brushed on around the tunnel and pedals (so as not to get schutz inside the tunnel or on the pedals arms.
    - inside of the front nose, above battery box. The latch and jack holder area. Bottom of latch gets black, top body color. Do body color first, then black over the top. Feel free to leave some primer exposed. Did your car have grey primer or red oxide primer? Mine has lots of red oxide primer exposed. Some exterior colors used a beige primer. It seems to have varied by manufacturer and time? Typical were a red oxide primer or a beige primer.
    - rear parts of lid hinges, the parts that recess into the body.

    Schutz (undercoat):

    - originally this stuff was terrosol or terroson
    - A couple thick layers on the complete underside of the car, including fender wells, inside front of nose and rear clips. Remember, this stuff is "stone guard" and a good part of the sound insulation. Modern stuff like Würth will probably require several coats to get the ~2mm thickness original to our cars.
    - Single layer (~1mm thickness) on the inside floor of the car, including the rear quarter panel side walls, rear seat cushion area (bottom buckets and back).
    - General rule on the interior: if you're going to glue carpet there, it doesn't get schutz. Gluing carpet to oil-based tar stuff doesn't work well, and Reutter didn't do it as far as I can tell. This goes for the luggage area sidewalls and rear wall too, which got vinyl padding (in 1955) and tar-board sound deadening on the walls around the fuel tank. Not schutz on the front kick panels where the carpet pockets are, though do put shutz on the side footwell areas where carpet doesn't cover and are covered by the wood pedal board.
    - whole engine compartment gets schutz for '53 and earlier cars (just like Speedsters). Don't know how the '54 and '55 coupes and cabs were, as these also had vinyl padding as sound deadener. Schutz in the engine area also on the inside of the exterior bodywork panels all the way up to the rear latch. Bottom of rain gutter does not get it, so mask that off, or be a little sloppy there; Reutter was.
    - battery box floor and walls (though not inside of front nose (curved area). Get the little stands that hold the tire at and angle too. No schutz on the luggage compartment walls were the vinyl padding goes (or carpet padding on earlier pre-As). Top side of the little platform where the jack clamps are attached gets shutz. Feel free to sloppily get parts of the jack clamps too. Get schutz all the way back behind the battery onto the torsion tubes and little narrow floor area in the center below torsion tubes.
    - luggage area floor from the tire up to the gas tank. Under the gas tank does not get schutz, just black paint and felt strip pads between floor and gas tank. Areas to the side of the gas tank get schutz. Mask off the chassis number raised area from getting shutz. Just black paint there.

    A thicker version of Terrosol was used as a sealant on all the seams before the car was painted and given schutz. Brushed on with a wide brush So bottom of the car seams gets it, and the inside areas in the seams behind the dash, etc. Any seam that might let in water gets it, especially areas behind dash below windshield, around the hinge pockets, etc. Then the paint is done over the seam sealer on the inside, and schutz over it on the bottom side.
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Speedster
    Horn Push Badge
    A while back I bought this awesome three spoked steering wheel from Ned Faux. It's much like a barndoor or early split bug wheel but not actually a VW item so unfortunately doesn't fit a VW steering column. But as I'd been looking for a barndoor...
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  • Mick uploaded a new video
    Need to make something like this too...
    Replica 550 Spyder handbrake.
    Handbrake for Type-1 chassis in progress.
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  • Mick uploaded a new video
    Need to make some of these...
    356 replica fronthood hinge
    356 replica hoodhinge with working originalstyle lock.
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Speedster
    Bought one of these heater units for the demisters. It's pretty compact and chucks out a fair bit of heat. Probably enough to keep the cabin warm on cold days. Was pretty cheap too. Perfect if you need to have working demisters like here in Aus....
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