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  • So I'm pretty much decided on 5303 Graphite metallic. It's a '54 colour, which fits with the theme I'm trying to emulate.
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  • Looking at the colour combos for 54 it's looking like Black, Graphite metallic or Jade green metallic based solely on the tonneau, top and interior colours, which I already have. The Jade is not 100% correct with a beige interior / top, but it is such a lovely colour and would go well with a beige top and interior.

    From what I have read the early cars all had red oxide primer.
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  • Been looking for info on original primer colours and came across the following information relating to preparing and painting...

    I'm basing this off 1953 coupes mostly, but it is true for cars going back to 1950 and up through '55 too I think. Would be happy for corrections:

    Body color for a coupe:

    - exterior, including headlight buckets
    - interior and exterior of both front and rear lids, including latches. Not sure about the spring on the front latch.
    - exterior and partially (sloppy)...
    Been looking for info on original primer colours and came across the following information relating to preparing and painting...

    I'm basing this off 1953 coupes mostly, but it is true for cars going back to 1950 and up through '55 too I think. Would be happy for corrections:

    Body color for a coupe:

    - exterior, including headlight buckets
    - interior and exterior of both front and rear lids, including latches. Not sure about the spring on the front latch.
    - exterior and partially (sloppy) on inside of doors. Be sure to prime the doors well, and the schutz (undercoat) on the inside of the skin. Exterior color overspray is fine on the inner door structures that hold the handle and winder.
    - interior passenger area up to the A, B, C pillars (roof kept in primer). Be sure to get the area behind the dash, including the defroster tube/funnels. Be sloppy here, so you get some nice runs on the defroster funnels and leave some exposed primer on the backside of the horizontal defroster tube.
    - dash gets 1 coat of exterior color front and back. Then, if the exterior color is light and the dash is dark (almost always the case), then the front side of the dash gets the dark color. Be sure to get some nice overspray on the rear of the dash, just like Reutter did it.
    - sides and rear of luggage compartment get body color.
    - aluminum door hinge covers get body color just on the front side. Just primer on the back.

    Black semi-gloss:

    - luggage area floor except for side and back walls (which get body color). Some of this will also get covered in schutz.
    - battery box (also gets shutz)
    - engine area (also gets covered in schutz). Reutter I think just did schutz over the primer. But all black.
    - Above driver/passenger knees below the gas tank. Spray this from driver's side so you leave some primer exposed on the angles you don't hit. Just like Reutter. Footwell. Floor. (If the carpet was dark blue, the areas here gets painted dark, dark blue) The footwell and floor get this black (or dark blue) color covered in 1 layer of schutz, some of it brushed on around the tunnel and pedals (so as not to get schutz inside the tunnel or on the pedals arms.
    - inside of the front nose, above battery box. The latch and jack holder area. Bottom of latch gets black, top body color. Do body color first, then black over the top. Feel free to leave some primer exposed. Did your car have grey primer or red oxide primer? Mine has lots of red oxide primer exposed. Some exterior colors used a beige primer. It seems to have varied by manufacturer and time? Typical were a red oxide primer or a beige primer.
    - rear parts of lid hinges, the parts that recess into the body.

    Schutz (undercoat):

    - originally this stuff was terrosol or terroson
    - A couple thick layers on the complete underside of the car, including fender wells, inside front of nose and rear clips. Remember, this stuff is "stone guard" and a good part of the sound insulation. Modern stuff like Würth will probably require several coats to get the ~2mm thickness original to our cars.
    - Single layer (~1mm thickness) on the inside floor of the car, including the rear quarter panel side walls, rear seat cushion area (bottom buckets and back).
    - General rule on the interior: if you're going to glue carpet there, it doesn't get schutz. Gluing carpet to oil-based tar stuff doesn't work well, and Reutter didn't do it as far as I can tell. This goes for the luggage area sidewalls and rear wall too, which got vinyl padding (in 1955) and tar-board sound deadening on the walls around the fuel tank. Not schutz on the front kick panels where the carpet pockets are, though do put shutz on the side footwell areas where carpet doesn't cover and are covered by the wood pedal board.
    - whole engine compartment gets schutz for '53 and earlier cars (just like Speedsters). Don't know how the '54 and '55 coupes and cabs were, as these also had vinyl padding as sound deadener. Schutz in the engine area also on the inside of the exterior bodywork panels all the way up to the rear latch. Bottom of rain gutter does not get it, so mask that off, or be a little sloppy there; Reutter was.
    - battery box floor and walls (though not inside of front nose (curved area). Get the little stands that hold the tire at and angle too. No schutz on the luggage compartment walls were the vinyl padding goes (or carpet padding on earlier pre-As). Top side of the little platform where the jack clamps are attached gets shutz. Feel free to sloppily get parts of the jack clamps too. Get schutz all the way back behind the battery onto the torsion tubes and little narrow floor area in the center below torsion tubes.
    - luggage area floor from the tire up to the gas tank. Under the gas tank does not get schutz, just black paint and felt strip pads between floor and gas tank. Areas to the side of the gas tank get schutz. Mask off the chassis number raised area from getting shutz. Just black paint there.

    A thicker version of Terrosol was used as a sealant on all the seams before the car was painted and given schutz. Brushed on with a wide brush So bottom of the car seams gets it, and the inside areas in the seams behind the dash, etc. Any seam that might let in water gets it, especially areas behind dash below windshield, around the hinge pockets, etc. Then the paint is done over the seam sealer on the inside, and schutz over it on the bottom side.
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Speedster
    Horn Push Badge
    •   Porsche
    •   Sunday, 02 February 2020
    3 Spoked Steering Wheel A while back I bought this awesome three spoked steering wheel from Ned Faux. It's much like a barndoor or early split bug wheel but not actually a VW item so unfortunately doesn't fit a VW steering column. But as I'd been looking for a barndoor...
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  • Mick uploaded a new video in Speedster
    Need to make something like this too...
    Replica 550 Spyder handbrake.
    Handbrake for Type-1 chassis in progress.
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  • Mick uploaded a new video in Speedster
    Need to make some of these...
    356 replica fronthood hinge
    356 replica hoodhinge with working originalstyle lock.
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Speedster
    800W electric heater
    •   General
    •   Friday, 31 January 2020
    s-l1600 Bought one of these heater units for the demisters. It's pretty compact and chucks out a fair bit of heat. Probably enough to keep the cabin warm on cold days. Was pretty cheap too. Perfect if you need to have working demisters like here in Aus....
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Speedster
    Rawhide
    •   Kit Cars
    •   Thursday, 30 January 2020
    Pre-loved leather interior Rollin, rollin, rollin...I had a bit of a brainwave. I've pretty much decided that the car is going to be finished in a faux-patina and hopefully emulating an original survivor speedster / race car / outlaw. I may paint it properly later, b...
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  • Mick unlocked the badge Explorer
    Explorer
    Window shoppper for users. To unlock this badge, you need to view at least 10 user profiles.
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  • Mick uploaded a new video in Garage Talk
    Just leaving this here for later.
    How to re-upholster a car seat.
    How to re-upholster a car seat www.johnhuntupholstery.co.uk
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  • Mick updated a blog post
    DIY Speedster Steering Column Clamp
    •   Porsche
    •   Monday, 27 January 2020
    DIY Speedster Steering Column Clamp Haven't done anything on the speedster for a while so was happy to grab a few hours today. I decided to take a look at the steering column with a view of getting the new column installed and mounted up. There's a few jobs to do before I can swap out the late column that's currently fitted. I managed to source an early beetle outer column tube from a mate but needed to figure out how to get it to work with what I had and how I wanted it to look following my overall plan of trying to make it look like an early car. Ideally I would love to swap the dash for a pre-A dash but my plan is simply to use as many early styling cues as I can whilst still working with what I have​
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  • Haven't done anything on the speedster for a while so was happy to grab a few hours today. I decided to take a look at the steering column with a view of getting the new column installed and mounted up. There's a few jobs to do before I can swap out the late column that's currently fitted. I managed to source an early beetle outer column tube from a mate but needed to figure out how to get it to work with what I had and how I wanted it to look following my overall plan of trying to make it...
    Haven't done anything on the speedster for a while so was happy to grab a few hours today. I decided to take a look at the steering column with a view of getting the new column installed and mounted up. There's a few jobs to do before I can swap out the late column that's currently fitted. I managed to source an early beetle outer column tube from a mate but needed to figure out how to get it to work with what I had and how I wanted it to look following my overall plan of trying to make it look like an early car. Ideally I would love to swap the dash for a pre-A dash but my plan is simply to use as many early styling cues as I can whilst still working with what I have

    One aspect of this is the steering column and it's mount. I really like the look of the proper Porsche steering column clamps, They are a nice chunky cast aluminium part, usually in a raw / polished finish, but after trying to find a reasonably priced one online I decided that the only thing to do was to make one.

    The other thing that I wanted to address was how the column sits under the dash. On original cars the column is not hard up under the dash, there's heaps of room as the column is mounted to a cross tube up behind the dash. This extra room allows the fitment of the steering column handbrake, which is something I'm thinking of making. The regular bug column mount is just a pressed steel bracket, which whilst it is fine, does mean that the column sits aup tight against the underside of the dash / bulkhead, in fact it is recessed into the underside of the panel, whereas the dash on original early cars is flat at the bottom. It's partially this chunky aluminium bracket that allows the steering column to sit much lower.

    I searched for a bit of aluminium plate that I thought I had stashed away under my workbench with the intention of making one from scratch, but could not find it. I did however find an old offcut from the rear of an Eaton blower, which in part looked a little bit like I needed. So I chopped it up on the bandsaw and made something resembling the lower half of the 356 column bracket. I finished it off on the linisher, wire wheel and finally a bit of a polish on the mop to smooth everything out.

    Next I added a closing plate to the top by carefully drilling and counterboring some holes to allow the two pieces to bolt together. This is a little different from the original which is cast in a U shape. I retained the mounting bolt spacing of the existing late column mounts so that it would bolt straight up to the existing mounting holes. I finished off the closing plate with the same sand /brush / mop process. The two parts now look nice ad weathered and whilst they are currently shiny, they will soon dull to a nice aged look. The new bracket has also dropped the column by about 30mm overall. This means that I now have 20mm between the column and underside of the dash - hopefully enough room for the handbrake.

    All that's left to do for the bracket is to make up the rubber insert. I think I will probably use some cast-in-place rubber / urethane but will need to get some black as I only have natural. I will do this after I have the handbrake sorted as the actual column position can be tweaked a little so I will cast the insert to suit.

    I also raided my stash of parts and found a nice early bug indicator stalk and a ratty looking gear shifter. The indicator stalk is a colour match for the column I have which may save painting it (would be a shame to ruin that lovely patina - however this really depends on what colour the car ends up) Not sure if the gear shifter is too long, but it's an easy job to shorten it.

    Next job is to fabricate a bearing for the upper end of the column and sort out the lower section. I have to mix and match the parts from two steering columns to make up what I want. Essentially it will be a split steering column with a late crash-can bottom. Safety first as they say. (the crash-can is actually a requirement for ICVs so is a good idea). I also need to press a keyway into the steering wheel hub. The column I have is an early style taper and key fitment. Using this style of column allowed me to machine out the steering wheel to fit as the splines did not match.

    So overall a productive couple of hours and one more job ticked off of the list.
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  • Mick uploaded a new video in Garage Talk
    Air Cooled VW - Hoover Mods
    Vintage Volks performs Hoover Mods on every performance motor we build. Watch the video as we explain what we do and why we do it. Please click the subscribe link to follow as we show, step by step, how we build our motors.

    Make sure to become a Patreon for exclusive content as well as early access to our videos! https://www.patreon.com/VintageVolks
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