VDubber

Volkswagen blogs, builds and banter...
Pinned Items
Recent Activities
  • Mick uploaded a new video
    OLDER N’ FASTER // THE CALIFORNIA LOOK
    This is the story of the California Look. Started back in the 60's no other style was as influential or important to the Volkswagen scene. They just get Older n' Faster ....
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  • Mick updated his profile
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  • Spent some time today chipping away at fitting the windscreen. The height of the screen frame needed to be cut down as it was still too high, so I carefully measured everything out and trimmed some more off of it. I also re-profiled the sides to fit the supports.

    With the screen surround at...
    Spent some time today chipping away at fitting the windscreen. The height of the screen frame needed to be cut down as it was still too high, so I carefully measured everything out and trimmed some more off of it. I also re-profiled the sides to fit the supports.

    With the screen surround at the right height I could now have a go at fitting everything together and seeing how it fitted on to the car. So with the rubbers trimmed down and fitted in to the frame, along with the screen I attempted to fit it.

    The correct way to fit the screen is to bolt the uprights to the frame and then drop the entire completed assembly into the mounting holes on the cowl. My attempt was sightly different as the posts were already mounted to the car as I have yet to establish the correct location for the post to frame mounting holes.

    As with all Speedster windshield frame installations, everything needs to be fitted / trimmed / whittled to suit the car as they are all different. This is especially true on my car. So the plan was to check the fit and then make any final adjustments before marking out the mounting holes.

    The installation was okay, I noted that the frame still needed some adjustments here and there, and the profile, whilst 110% better then before, could still do with lowering in the centre. It needs to come down about an inch, which could probably be done with the tensioner. I managed to press it down by hand and get it to sit reasonably good. However, by far the worst part was that there was rather a large gap below the screen at the centre.

    The gap, it seems, is due to the angle of the support posts, they appear to be raked too far backwards, which is something that has been on my mind since installing them. I loosened the posts off and allowed the screen to tilt forwards a little and the gap at the bottom closed up almost completely.

    So what to do?

    I compared the posts with the set that came with the car. These are definitely a little more 'upright', although considerably longer in length. The cowl itself is not the issue as it is flat, as it should be. It is possible of course that it is partially due to the glass, I'm not sure what dimensions a speedster screen should be, but a longer glass would also reduce the issue. The profile of the screen surround also affects the screen angle a little too, as rotating the posts changes their inclination and the surround directly influences the orientation of the posts.

    There's not too many options available to me. There's no adjustment as such, everything kind of bolts down until it is tight against the cowl. There's a little adjustment on the centre support rod, which is (I am led to believe) a common way to pull the centre of the screen surround down, but no real way to tilt the screen forwards.

    I think I need to re-profile the bottom of the upright supports to bring the top of the screen forwards and twist the surround a little to align it better. This seems to be the only option available to me. Fortunately I have a spare set of screen support posts, albeit they are slightly different. I'm not even really sure they are 'Porsche' parts, there's every likelihood that they are from something like an MG.

    I guess before I do that I need to spend some time looking at photos of other cars and see if I can't figure it out.

    More
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  • Apart from finishing mounting the screen and hood, the next job is to tackle some of the body issues. Most of the little jobs that need undertaking require holes to be glassed up, so it looks like I need to hone my fibreglassing skills. I've got door handle holes to be patched so that I can fit...
    Apart from finishing mounting the screen and hood, the next job is to tackle some of the body issues. Most of the little jobs that need undertaking require holes to be glassed up, so it looks like I need to hone my fibreglassing skills. I've got door handle holes to be patched so that I can fit the correct handles, a dash gauge hole to be filled so that I can fit the correct gauges, holes that the hinges sit in that need to be repaired so that I can fit the correct hinges and a bunch of shoddyness to address.

    I've been swatting up on glassing techniques and have received some good pointers from the FB community. I'll do a bit more reading too before I get stuck in but starting to get my head around what's required.

    The absolute worst part is the doors, they have the wrong door pulls, wrong outer handles, wrong hinges and the body has been hacked to try and get everything to line up, which has resulted in some MAJOR SHODDYNESS. But nothing that cannot be fixed with a little time and patience.

    The door gaps are probably the worst part of the body, they are shocking. First step is to get the doors hung correctly with the proper hinges and then repair the A Pillar where it has been hacked. Once this has been sorted out I can fix up the external and internal door handles. I'll leave the cosmetic aspects such as door gaps until I attack the rest of the body.

    For me the doors are one of those components that need to look right, they are another clear giveaway that the car is a replica. A lot of this has to do with the style of the door capping and handle type / location, small details but it's always the small details that make or break a project.

    The door cappings that were supplied with the car are made from wood. They are super heavy and not really the right shape or size. They were obviously made by the utilising skills that the past owner had, which is fine, they would have looked okay trimmed but I'm not happy with them myself. The original cappings were made from steel, and whilst this is probably outside of the skillset of most, it's something that I should be able to make up as they look relatively simple. They are also necessary for fitting the side curtains, so something that will likely be tackled soon rather than later.
    More
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  •   Speedster commented on this post about 3 weeks ago
    Been chipping away doing a few jobs today. Decided to mount up the lights but having trouble finding the correct measurements for the rear number plate and light.

    The beehive lights were already located as the body is molded at that location to accept them, however the measurements that I have...
    Been chipping away doing a few jobs today. Decided to mount up the lights but having trouble finding the correct measurements for the rear number plate and light.

    The beehive lights were already located as the body is molded at that location to accept them, however the measurements that I have for the number plate location put it too high up. All of the photos that I look at have the number plate directly in-between the lights.

    It's almost like the beehives lights are mounted in the wrong location, which there is little I can do about short of re-glassing them. This may be on the cards down the track, but not something I want / need to do right now.

    Also spent some time going through the lenses I had to find a matching pair. I have a few symmetrical lenses, which are correct for the year but only one of the correct style Bosch scripted lenses so had to make do with some Hellas instead. I'll try and trade to get another Bosch lense.
    More
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    • Managed to get some dimensions from another member of the Aussie Porsche Replicas FB page (Thanks Ian).

      The mounting holes are 175mm down from the deManaged to get some dimensions from another member of the Aussie Porsche Replicas FB page (Thanks Ian).

      The mounting holes are 175mm down from the decklid shut line. Also confirmed that the number plate should be level with the lights. Looks heaps better now.
        More ...
      0
      0
      0
      0
      0
      0
      Reported
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  • One thing that I dislike about the VW based speedster kits is that they all have the handbrake in-between the seats, rather than under the dashboard, like the originals. So this has always been on my list of things to change with my kit.

    Think I've worked out an easy-ish way to make an...
    One thing that I dislike about the VW based speedster kits is that they all have the handbrake in-between the seats, rather than under the dashboard, like the originals. So this has always been on my list of things to change with my kit.

    Think I've worked out an easy-ish way to make an under-dash umbrella style handbrake using a bay window bus handbrake. I've got one coming in the post so will have a bit of a play when it arrives.

    The mechanisms are very similar in that you turn the handle to release it. The Speedster setup uses a lever to transfer the action across to the cable which protrudes from the front of the chassis. I've seen others replicate this but it requires some jiggery-pokery to get it all to work, plus you need to have longer cables made up.

    My idea is simply to use a cable directly on the end of the bay handrake mechanism that then runs to the front of the chassis. The inner cable can then continue inside and join up to the two existing cables using a block similar to the original Porsche part (item 27 in the exploded view).

    Of course I'm pretty sure that its not going to be as simple as it sounds, as there's going to be some form of force multiplier required (lever-arm), along with making sure that the cable does not interfere with the gear shift mechanism or anything else in the tunnel, but I think the idea can be made to work.
    More
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  • Mick uploaded a new video in Porsche Appreciation
    Pretty cool video showing the development and testing of the 992
    ViralMega
    2020 Porsche 911 (992) - Development Of Stunning Sports Car
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  • vdubber is now friends with Mick
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  • Mick uploaded a new video
    FORMULA VEE CLASS AUTO RACING 1970s PROMOTIONAL FILM 62764
    •   Misc
    •   Thursday, 24 January 2019
    • 181
    This is a 1970’s era, color movie that opens with race cars going around a racetrack. The movie is called Formula Vee racing and it is about the Formula Vee ...
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  • Mick uploaded 28 photos in the album Coffee and Chrome Jan 2019
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  • Mick uploaded 66 photos in the album Volksfest 2018
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  • Mick uploaded 17 photos in the album Dubs by the Sea 2018
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  • Mick uploaded 60 photos in the album Dubs by the river 2018
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  • Mick uploaded a new video
    Bug Jam 89
    Bug Jam 89.
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  • So it looks like I have finally found a driver side A-Pillar.

    Just waiting for it to arrive. ‏ — feeling Stoked
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  • Finally managed to finish the wiring loom off for the bus. This allowed me to get the ECU hooked up and commission everything. I calibrated the wideband sensor, set the TPS limits, added in the three point references for the temperature sensors, tested the crank trigger and the Idle stepper,...
    Finally managed to finish the wiring loom off for the bus. This allowed me to get the ECU hooked up and commission everything. I calibrated the wideband sensor, set the TPS limits, added in the three point references for the temperature sensors, tested the crank trigger and the Idle stepper, fired the injectors and coil packs and checked that everything was working as it should.

    Now it's just a case of getting the engine back in the bus and seeing if she will start.

    Not long now
    More
    ‏ — feeling Excited :D
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  • Mick uploaded 12 photos in the album Jacks Fundraiser June 2018
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  •   Mick's 70 Lowlight commented on this post about 11 months ago
    Mick uploaded 21 photos in the album EFI / Blower Stuff
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    • Spend some time today fitting the trigger wheel to my crank pulley and figuring out where and how to mount the VR sensor. I made up a quick bracket toSpend some time today fitting the trigger wheel to my crank pulley and figuring out where and how to mount the VR sensor. I made up a quick bracket to test out the chosen location and it appears to work pretty well. I will make up a better bracket when I've got the plasma back up and running.  More ...
      0
      0
      0
      0
      0
      0
      Reported
    • Have now junked Megasquirt in favour of Speeduino based solution using custom ECU designed by me. Features: integrated wideband, idle stepper control,Have now junked Megasquirt in favour of Speeduino based solution using custom ECU designed by me. Features: integrated wideband, idle stepper control, bluetooth and proper molex connector. Also now running a wider PK7 belt, revised high-flow manifold design, ported blower and higher flowing blown application injectors. Just finishing off the loom.  More ...
      0
      0
      0
      0
      0
      0
      Reported
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  • Mick uploaded 10 photos in the album DIY Tacho
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  • Mick liked the page, 1967 13 window Deluxe Bus - Eve
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  • Joe Blow Ad
    A word from our sponsors...
    Joe Blow Superchargers - VDubber site Sponsors
    https://joeblow.me
    Joe Blow Superchargers and performance products for air-cooled Volkswagens
  • Been slowly chipping away at the bus. Modified the exhaust by relocating the rear hanger that the silencer is suspended from as the original location did not work that great. I simply cut off the old mount and re-welded it in a more suitable location. I also welded in the bung for my O2 sensor,...
    Been slowly chipping away at the bus. Modified the exhaust by relocating the rear hanger that the silencer is suspended from as the original location did not work that great. I simply cut off the old mount and re-welded it in a more suitable location. I also welded in the bung for my O2 sensor, I'm 95% sure it will not hit the rear valance but will have to wait and see. I also heated up and bent out the moustache bar to create a little clearance for the silencer. It's very close. The silencer is also very close to the engine hanger. 85% sure it'll be okay on that one

    The old engine mounts were pretty badly cracked so I ordered some replacements. I tried looking for uprated / heavy duty mounts but found that there is nothing available for early bay busses. What i did find however, was that the DIY tuning crowd were making up their own uprated mounts using two-part urethane.

    The idea is actually pretty simple. Use urethane to fill in the holes in the mounts, stiffening them up. This actually works quite well on an early bay mount. To do this I cleaned up the mounts (they were covered in paint) created a bit of a dam/mold using some gaffer tape, mixed up the urethane and poured it into the mount. 24 hours later it had completely cured. To I did a bit of a test by compressing both a stock mount and an 'uprated' one in my shop press and found that the uprated one hardly deflected at all.

    Another fairly major step in the project was the manufacture of some ECU adaptor boards. These are for the EFI ECUs that I supply and make manufacture and installation much simpler as they integrate the wideband controller and fuel and ignition relays onboard. The first prototype is now ready to be installed, after I make myself another ECU (they keep getting sold).

    The final step is also underway, the wiring. I've started (and mostly finished) the wiring loom. There's only a few bits of soldering / splicing to finish and then the loom can be wrapped, and that is then pretty much it. Time to get the engine in.


    More
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  •   Harry Ganavas reacted to this post about 1 year ago
    The new overriders and headlights (excuse the finger marks). The headlights have an integrated LED 'halo' around the edge for the sidelights. The headlights themselves use a modern clear lense and prismatic reflectors which help give a brighter light. They look a bit different to the old units...
    The new overriders and headlights (excuse the finger marks). The headlights have an integrated LED 'halo' around the edge for the sidelights. The headlights themselves use a modern clear lense and prismatic reflectors which help give a brighter light. They look a bit different to the old units but not so much that they stand out. I've also installed LED main bulbs, which come with a cool fan assisted heat sink on the back. For installation tips please refer to the previous post.
    More
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  • Been meaning to update the build thread for a while. Been making some steady progress on the bus, it's just a case of grabbing half an hour here and there when I can and trying to knock off some of those small jobs. The fuel system is now installed and basically ready for the engine to be hooked...
    Been meaning to update the build thread for a while. Been making some steady progress on the bus, it's just a case of grabbing half an hour here and there when I can and trying to knock off some of those small jobs. The fuel system is now installed and basically ready for the engine to be hooked up. I've reinstalled the gearbox along with a new shift coupling as well as the driveshaft that I previously rebuilt with new CVs. I've reinstalled the starter motor and removed the old fuel pump and wiring.

    The engine is now assembled with a plethora of small jobs finally sorted out. I've ported the blower, whittled the throttle butterfly shaft, machined the throttle body to accept the air filter, made up some injector adaptors, fabricated some injector hold down clamps, finished off the fuel rails, fitted one of my new crank trigger sensor brackets, made up a new wider blower and crank pulley as well as properly installed the headers and tin-wear. There's a bunch of other stuff that I've probably forgotten too (ahh yeah - like reinstalling the clutch) well, you get the idea.

    So the engine is basically ready to go in, the only thing that is really stopping me is that I want to finish the loom before I install it. Well, I think I do. I'm a bit unsure. I'll decide that when I get to it.

    This weekend I finished off a couple of other small jobs that have been hanging around - Installation of the overriders and the LED headlamps. I still need to tack the headlights in place, but it got a bit too dark to do that this evening, plus I need to hook up the battery to double check the headlamp aim before I finalise their position.

    Conversion of the bus to H4 style headlights meant changing from the early bay all-in-one style of headlight assembly where the headlamp mounting is fixed to the read of the trim ring to a seperate headlight mount and trim ring. The only issue with this approach is that there are no brackets to fit the new headlight mount to. I solved this by making up some small tabs which I bent 90 degrees and held to the mount by the use of some small self tapping screws. With the brackets fixed to the headlight mount it was fairly easy to push it into the headlight bowl, where it held itself in position. Once I have fitted the battery back in the bus I will confirm the aim of the lights and then weld them in position.

    Having already converted the rear lights to LED I now have to change my flasher relay. The standard flasher relay works on a thermal strip and so needs a relatively high load to work. As the LEDs draw practically no power the flasher relay will not work and so needs to be changed for a solid-state (electronic) style of relay. Whilst I'm doing this I can also install the new fuse box mounting bracket as mine is missing.

    Still heaps to do but I feel like its getting closer to actually getting the engine back in the bus. Some of the other jobs can wait until afterwards.
    More
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  • Mick uploaded 34 photos in the album DOTVW 2018
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  • Finally got stuck into getting the bus back together. There's a whole bunch of jobs to do that all rely on other jobs being completed first which start with jobs that need doing underneath the bus before the gearbox goes back in. So that's where I made a start. I installed the new shift coupling...
    Finally got stuck into getting the bus back together. There's a whole bunch of jobs to do that all rely on other jobs being completed first which start with jobs that need doing underneath the bus before the gearbox goes back in. So that's where I made a start. I installed the new shift coupling and then set about tidying up the wiring. The loom wasn't too bad but had the usual 47 years of modifications and grime you would expect. I decided to go for it and strip off all of the perished outer sleeving, remove the tow hitch wiring and then redo the outer sleeving in a woven over-braid. It now looks much better.

    I cut and fitted some new sound deadening and trim panels for the roof of the engine bay. I went with a mixture of sound deadening tape, insulation, a fire retardant layer and some white hardboard to finish.

    I also selected a location for the EFI fuel pump and rising rate regulator and mounted them in place too. I did not really want to put the regulator in the engine bay but there was just nowhere suitable underneath where I could still easily get at it to adjust it so I mounted it to the rear of the air filter mount.

    I also mounted the rear lights back in fitted the screws to hold the firewall in place.

    In addition to the reassembly work, I've been on the lookout for some original style sliding side windows so that the kids can get some fresh air when we are driving. I sourced one locally but when I got it home it turned out to be a non standard one and did not fit. I Might make it fit the rear of the '55 instead.

    I did manage to find a pair of original sliding windows but nearly died laughing when the seller told me he wanted $500 EACH for them as they were rare !!! The bloke must be trippin. I've heard of scene tax but that's just taking the piss.

    Despite that, it was a pretty productive weekend, even though it was 42 degrees
    More
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  • Took a look at the drop spindle conversion yesterday. The idea is to fit late bay drop spindles and then make some adaptors to convert to wide 5. This way I get both drop spindles and discs.

    I previously had some adaptor plates cut from 10mm steel but on fitting noted that the centres are way...
    Took a look at the drop spindle conversion yesterday. The idea is to fit late bay drop spindles and then make some adaptors to convert to wide 5. This way I get both drop spindles and discs.

    I previously had some adaptor plates cut from 10mm steel but on fitting noted that the centres are way bigger then the hubs that I have (the hubs are brand new Empi versions) I'm guessing that the original hubs are a different diameter. At any rate I will need to get some more adaptors made up. This time I will just get some blanks cut and then finish them off myself. The laser cutting was not great, it looks like they had the machine too fast as there was a lot of deflection in the cut. Not great when you need it to be accurate.

    I will machine the new ones in my lathe and then drill the holes using my dividing head - this way I can ensure concentricity and make sure that the plate is a snug fit on the hub - this ensures that the load is transferred to the hub and is not taken up by the wheel studs. The countersunk bolts stop it from looking too much like a bolt on wheel adaptor.
    More
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  • Added some bling. Now I just need to decide if I want to chrome the badge...
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  • Mick uploaded a new video in Porsche Appreciation
    Tomm Wells
    How cool is this...
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  • Haven't had a chance to do any more work on getting the engine installed but have spent a few dollars treating the bus to some new goodies.

    One of the mods that I have planned for the bus was converting the front to use the new drop spindles available for late bays. The reason for this is to...
    Haven't had a chance to do any more work on getting the engine installed but have spent a few dollars treating the bus to some new goodies.

    One of the mods that I have planned for the bus was converting the front to use the new drop spindles available for late bays. The reason for this is to improve the ride a little as lowering the front solely by beam adjusters has left the bus with a bit of a bouncy ride. The issue with this conversion is that late bays run disks with a different bolt pattern to early bays (which run drums and wide 5.) So to get the wheels to fit you need to make up an adaptor plate to convert the late bay stud pattern to early wide-5 and run the disk brake set up. Unfortunately at this stage they do not do a drum brake version and it is not possible to fit drums to the late drop spindles without a lot of modification which is not something that I want to risk with my brakes.

    I previously made up an adaptor plate (which needs machining) and purchased the drop spindles, and was looking for someone wrecking a late bay to get the rest of the parts that I needed. But after a couple of dead ends and failing at getting some sent from interstate I gave up on that idea. Somehow I recently stumbled across the fact the Rod Penrose stocks all of the necessary parts (new) for this conversion. Rods obviously had the foresight to realise that the hubs, bearings, etc are also needed so he keeps them in stock. So I've taken the plunge and ordered all of the parts required to finish the brake conversion including a new master cylinder and front brake lines.

    This now takes the list of jobs that need doing up to several hundred - lol.

    In addition to the brakes I've also pulled the trigger on a diesel space heater. Not exactly a necessity for the Australian summer but a nice bit of kit to have for those colder evenings and one to take the chill off the bus on a cold morning once I have sorted out a remote starter. I'll obviously post up about the install, as and when that happens. Next hurdle is to figure out where to install a diesel tank.
    More
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  • Finished off machining the flywheel. I've probably taken about a kilo off of the weight. I also 8 doweled the flywheel and crank. As I didn't have a jig, I used my indexing head to drill out the flywheel and then spotted through the flywheel to drill the corresponding holes in the crank.

    As the...
    Finished off machining the flywheel. I've probably taken about a kilo off of the weight. I also 8 doweled the flywheel and crank. As I didn't have a jig, I used my indexing head to drill out the flywheel and then spotted through the flywheel to drill the corresponding holes in the crank.

    As the fan-shroud was dry, I fitted up the ignitor coil drivers and coil packs. You can see where I cut a hole behind the ignitors to allow air from the fan to cool the rear of the ignitor. This should work much better than just relying on a heat sink.
    More
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  • Mick uploaded 117 photos in the album Volksfest 2017
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  • Finally got some time to do a bit of work on the bus. Decided to get the final outstanding little jobs on the engine finished off. Biggest one was putting some paint on the tin. To be completely honest, as time is thin I just gave it a quick rattle can to make it all the same colour. If I had a...
    Finally got some time to do a bit of work on the bus. Decided to get the final outstanding little jobs on the engine finished off. Biggest one was putting some paint on the tin. To be completely honest, as time is thin I just gave it a quick rattle can to make it all the same colour. If I had a spare couple of days I might have elected to do a better job but at this stage I just want to get the bus back on the road.

    The other jobs were mounting the ignitors for the twin coil packs and putting the IACV and TPS onto the throttle body. With the ignitors I decided to forgo fitting heat sinks and make them air-cooled instead. A 20mm hole and a couple of washers behind them is enough to space them out a little and get some air flow over them.

    The IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) is a stepper based unit which is compatible with most modern ECU's I also have a two wire PWM style IACV that is compatible with Megasquirt units. The TPS is a generic unit that should work with all ECUs.

    The other thing that I started to do but ran out of time with is taking a little weight off of my flywheel. The aim here is to lighten it by a kilo or so. The stock flywheel is about 7.5kg, and the lightened ones available off of the shelf are about 5.5kg (12.5lb). If I can get it somewhere between 6 - 6.5kg I will be happy.

    Next job is to make a jig to 8 dowel the flywheel and crank.
    More
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  • Mick uploaded 28 photos in the album ReVolks 2017
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
There are no activities here yet
Unable to load tooltip content.