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My Type 34 Karmann Ghia. I have owned this car for 20+ years. I even brought it with me when I moved to Australia. a...
My Type 34 Karmann Ghia.

I have owned this car for 20+ years. I even brought it with me when I moved to Australia. and despite this it's still not finished.
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  • DeeEmm liked this page
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  • Mick uploaded 290 photos in the album Build Photos
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  • Mick's Type 34 has been created

    Mick's Type 34

    My Type 34 Karmann Ghia.

    I have owned this car for 20+ years. I even brought it with me when I moved to Australia. and despite this it's still not finished.
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Mick's Type 34
    Narrowing IRS - Part 2
    Narrowing IRS - Part 2 If you've been following the build of the Ghia you may recall that I previously blogged about narrowing the IRS arms to help fix a tyre clearance issue that I have with the Ghia. Well having sourced another set of IRS A-arms some time back, this week...
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Mick's Type 34
    Narrowing IRS
    To get the Ghia through the engineers inpection I need to address the issue of tyre to arch clearance. It had been noted by the engineer that I need to increase the clearance by approximately 10mm. There are a number of ways of acheiving this, most o...
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Mick's Type 34
    Rear Parcel Shelf Installation
    As with assembling most things, whether an Ikea flat pack, or a classic car, the order in which things are put together is pretty important. This is especially true of the Type 34 interior. The interior trim is installed in such a way that each part ...
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Mick's Type 34
    Not every Ghia has a silver lining
    It’s been a few weeks since I posted a progress update,  not because I’ve not done anything, but simply as I’ve been too busy to be able to to spare the time to blog about it. If you’ve been checking my photo stream you would have noticed that I did ...
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Mick's Type 34
    Type 3 EFI trigger wheel
    If like me you have wondered how or where you can mount the trigger wheel for your EFI Type 3 engine, well ponder no longer, the answer is here :D I stumbled across this thread over at the Samba, where supersuk outlined an idea to make a trigger whe...
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Mick's Type 34
    Rolling, rolling, rolling...
    Rawhide references aside, this weekend broaches yet another milestone in the build. For the past 5 or so years the car has sat on axle stands whilst I tinkered about with different suspension setups, but now, after deciding to postpone my plans for t...
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Mick's Type 34
    Wheels and Deals
    The weekend I turned my attention to getting the rear brakes sorted out. The new backing plates and hub centres finally arrived from the states and so I could fit them up and check out clearances and offsets. After trial fitting the hubs and taking ...
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Mick's Type 34
    Steering me in
      This weekend I turned my attention to getting the rest of the brakes installed. The pedal assembly needed to be fitted and the SACO hydraulic clutch kit installed. The SACO kit replaces the clutch cable with a hydraulic setup which includes a sm...
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  • I finally finished off the engine mounts today. I decided to bolt them in rather than weld them in, mostly as I feel that it will be a lot stronger. To do this I fabricated a plate to fit on the inside of the engine bay tin. This helps spread the load out and reinforce the panel. It will also prevent the bolts from pulling through the metal.
    The plate needed to be bent to miss the recess pressed in the panel where the bracket sits, which was easy enough to do on the bender. I then...
    I finally finished off the engine mounts today. I decided to bolt them in rather than weld them in, mostly as I feel that it will be a lot stronger. To do this I fabricated a plate to fit on the inside of the engine bay tin. This helps spread the load out and reinforce the panel. It will also prevent the bolts from pulling through the metal.
    The plate needed to be bent to miss the recess pressed in the panel where the bracket sits, which was easy enough to do on the bender. I then spotted through some holes to allow them to be bolted together.

    With the backing plates fabbed up it was time for a trial fit. I removed the engine bar and cleaned up the gunk and gunge from it (the donor engine had leaky oil cooler seals) I then bent the bar slightly rearwards on each side to allow the engine mounts to be fitted to a flat surface. Any further forwards and the engine bay metalwork starts to bend inwards due to the rear wheel well. I trial fitted everything to see how much clearance I had between the carbs and the engine lid, and also between the alternator and the engine lid.
    To get the clearance I wanted between the carbs and the engine lid I've dropped the rear of the engine  a little, so to make sure everything fitted, I also trial fitted the bellows to make sure that I could get it in position. It was a little tight but eventually I got the bellows in place.
    With everything in position, I could finalise the engine mount locations. I spotted through the holes on the brackets and then drilled holes in the engine bay.
    With the holes in the engine bay drilled I bolted everything up and fixed the engine bar to the engine mounts.  I then let the weight down off of the engine stands - the engine is finally in!!! This is the first time in probably 20 years that the car has had an engine fitted in it, and a milestone in the build.

    After double checking everything, the mounts were taken out again and given a couple of coats of enamel black ready for permanent fitting next week. There's a couple of welds to do to refix the inner engine bay tin work into position. I had to crack the welds to allow the tin to bend out slightly to fit the mounts into position, I decided that this was easier than re-forming the engine bay tin, which was my original plan. The change in direction was partly as a result of remaking the brackets to be smaller and therefore require less modification to the engine bay tin to fit and partly as I decided to bend the engine bar backwards to allow the mounts to be fitted further back. In total the engine bay tin has only needed to be bent out by about 5-1omm and the overall result is that the mounts do not look too out of place. I'm really happy with the results, and can't wait to get cracking on the engine build.
    All in all a momentous occasion, and one that I'm now celebrating with a glass of red
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Mick's Type 34
    A momentous occasion
    I finally finished off the engine mounts today. I decided to bolt them in rather than weld them in, mostly as I feel that it will be a lot stronger. To do this I fabricated a plate to fit on the inside of the engine bay tin. This helps spread the loa...
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  • I’ve been pretty busy the past few weeks, so much so that I haven’t even had a chance to blog about what I’ve managed to get done. I’ve really been getting a push on to get the car ready for the 50th anniversary celebrations that we are having in September, and so have been flat out at every opportunity.
    If you’ve been reading the blog regularly, then you would recall that last time I had trial fitted the engine into the car to figure out a few things. One of the things that I needed to get...

    I’ve been pretty busy the past few weeks, so much so that I haven’t even had a chance to blog about what I’ve managed to get done. I’ve really been getting a push on to get the car ready for the 50th anniversary celebrations that we are having in September, and so have been flat out at every opportunity.
    If you’ve been reading the blog regularly, then you would recall that last time I had trial fitted the engine into the car to figure out a few things. One of the things that I needed to get sorted was the fabrication of some new IRS engine mounts. Originally the car was swing-axle, but I have changed the rear sub-frame over to a later IRS type.
    With no frame-horns (IRS sub-frames do not have frame-horns) the only option to mount the engine is via the same method used with the later IRS cars, this meant fabricating some engine bar mounts to accept the IRS engine mounts.
    I started off by making a pattern in card and using this to make a mock-up that I trial fitted into the car. This first mock up did not fit, mostly as there is a lack of space, so I needed to shrink the initial design a little, and make a new template up.

    With the template transferred into metal, it was bent up and a hole cut for a stock VW engine mount. I flanged the edge of the hole for additional strength. After trial fitting this I decided to close in the back of the bracket and TIG welded another plate into the back of the bracket. This gave the bracket a lot more strength, and also will make it easier to fit .


    Whilst I had the TIG cranked up I decided to weld up the fan. Stock fans are not designed to run at high revs and can run the possibility of exploding. The generally accepted solution is to weld the fan blades. Whilst the engine I’m building is not going to be a screamer, it cost nothing to weld it up and killed an hour or so.
    I also picked up the new exhaust system and trial fitted it. A buddy of mine had bought the same exhaust for his Type 34 and had some fit issues. I decided to take the plunge and buy the same system with the expectation that I would have a little work to do making it fit. The system is an ‘over the top’ style system that has the silencer sitting between the collector and the fan bellows, this improves ground clearance and hides the silencer out of sight.
    The exhaust fitted quite well but will need a small modification to the flange on the silencer to get it all to line up correctly


    As well as exhausts, I’ve been busy with refitting the front end. I repainted the calipers, cleaned up the hubs, and clearanced them to fit new oil seals. Then I refitted them up with new bearings.


    I picked up a Type 3 CB Performance IDF kit. This has stubby manifolds and short air filters so that it fits under the deck lid. These will eventually make way for an EFI system, but as they were ‘spare’ I’ve decided to use them. These are actually for my bus, but as that is a long way off of being finished, I decided to put them to good use.

    Other goodies I picked up include a brand new AS41 case This has been pre-machined and clearanced by Stan Pobjoy for the 82 x 90.5 kit that I have, and just needs to be full flowed (go figure), which I will do when the NPT tap set turns up that I’ve ordered. I also invested in an engine stand as well, which I mounted as shown. All I need to source is some stainless steel for the bench top to create my clean area for engine assembly.

    Other stuff includes… Rear anti roll bar…

    …thermostatically controlled fan…

    …a bug alternator for an alternator conversion…

    …and probably some other stuff that I’ve missed out too.
    Tomorrow I’m out in the garage again and plan to get the engine mounts fitted into the car. Assuming all goes well the engine will come out again and I will move onto something else.
    I would like to get the pan rolling again but I’m waiting on some 944 backing plates. The rear spindles are fitted up with new bearings and oil seals, but until the 944 stuff turns up that’s as far as I can go on the back.
    I might look at refitting the pedal cluster and master cylinder. I can get as far as fitting the front brake lines up, but without the rear hubs I will not be able to make up the hard lines and fill / bleed the system.
    Might also look at partially assembling the crank. The crank, flywheel, fan etc need to go off to the balancers so I need to get it all together, this includes fitting the cam gear and distributor drive to the crank.
    Will (eventually) keep you posted of the progress
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Mick's Type 34
    Over the top?
    I’ve been pretty busy the past few weeks, so much so that I haven’t even had a chance to blog about what I’ve managed to get done. I’ve really been getting a push on to get the car ready for the 50th anniversary celebrations that we are having in Sep...
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Mick's Type 34
    Engine Trial Fit
      With the 50th anniversary event slowly creeping up, I’ve got a renewed enthusiasm for the Ghia and I’m managing to get quite a bit done. This weekend I set myself the task of getting the engine in the car as a trial fit so that I could look to...
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Mick's Type 34
    Front Beam Refitted
      I’ve made some good progress on the Ghia the past couple of weeks. After assembling the IRS last weekend, I stripped and painted the front beam. The front beam was already partially stripped having been removed from the car some time ago. I ha...
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Mick's Type 34
    IRS Reassembled
    Managed to spend some time on reassembling the rear suspension this past weekend. The paint I applied last weekend has not come out too bad, but the issue I had with the thinners reacting has left a bit of a mottled finish. But, as I’m now on a missi...
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  • Mick posted a new blog post in Mick's Type 34
    IRS Painted
      I spent this weekend finishing off painting the IRS for the Ghia. I stripped the paint from it last weekend using a combination of paint stripper and a zip wheel in my grinder. There was only some minor surface rust, so I sanded this back ready fo...
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  • Spent a bit of time yesterday stripping down the Type 3 IRS that I will be fitting into the Type 34. This came out of the fastback doner car I bought a few months back. The suspension is in pretty good shape with no rust, dings, modifications or bits missing.

    I removed the A-arms and spring plates in readiness to strip and paint the beam. I will probably paint this myself in an enamel based paint rather than getting it powder coated as powder coating generally comes out a little too shiny...
    Spent a bit of time yesterday stripping down the Type 3 IRS that I will be fitting into the Type 34. This came out of the fastback doner car I bought a few months back. The suspension is in pretty good shape with no rust, dings, modifications or bits missing.

    I removed the A-arms and spring plates in readiness to strip and paint the beam. I will probably paint this myself in an enamel based paint rather than getting it powder coated as powder coating generally comes out a little too shiny for my taste, plus they rarely mask everything up properly, so you end up spending just as much time removing paint from areas like bearing mating surfaces and thread inserts.


     

    The bushes are well worn and will get replaced with new items. I will probably source some urethane bushes, although these are not as readily available as the swingaxle type.
    I will be fitting a disc brake conversion to the rear. Similar to the front, i am using Porsche brembo calipers. These are the same ones that were fitted to the aluminium 944 Turbo A-arms I was previously using. The reason that I am no longer using them is simply that the suspension that I was buillding is unfinished and it will be quicker to use a stock setup with caliper adaptors. This is because using the VW arms means that there is no extra track (width), which in turn means that I do not need to modify the rear suspension. In reality, whilst the Aluminium arms look the business, they are actually heavier than the steel VW arms, and the additional work required to fit them is not worth it.
    The aluminium arms can be used without modifying the track if the correct offset wheel is used, but for the wheel combination that I am using this does not work.

    Fitting Porsche brakes to the rear is relatively simple and just involves a bolt on kit available from MBT Engineering . This allows fitment of the standard Porsche disc and handbrake shoes as well. These operate on the inside of the disc, much like a drum brake. This is similar to the unit shown below.

    I still need to obtain the adaptor, unfortunately getting in touch with MBT is not easy. If it proves too hard to source I may simply use stock drums, and swap them over later. The main aim of the game at the moment is simply to ge the car back on the road.
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